This article first appeared in National Geographic Traveller, October 2021
It’s the history that draws most visitors to Bath – be it the city’s Roman baths or the buildings of the golden-hued Georgian era. But if you’ve seen the Roman Baths, Abbey, Jane Austen Centre and had a soak in the Thermae Spa, or if you just want a quieter, more authentic Bathonian experience, it pays to spend time outside the main attractions. Bath is special because of its proudly independent shops, quality food produce and, according to Unesco, the way it draws in the surrounding hills and countryside. Thanks to its river and canal, it’s a city that offers waterborne pleasures too.
A saunter through Bath’s lesser-known attractions might start in the city’s Botanical Gardens, created in 1887. The Great Dell, adjacent, has a walkway among large redwoods and conifers, while The Little Coffee Cart sells refreshments between outstretched magnolia boughs.
Behind the sweeping Royal Crescent, Margaret’s Buildings is a quaint parade in which to potter. Browse Gallery Nine (galleryninebath.com) for jewellery, ceramics and art, then step back in time at Berdoulat (berdoulat.co.uk), which sells wine, tea, coffee and furniture. The 19th-century wooden shop counters have been splendidly restored by the interior designer owners and Berdoulat’s cafe is run by Frome’s excellent Rye Bakery. Bath’s less famous but equally grand crescents include Camden Crescent and Lansdown Crescent (the latter offers views across the city).
Walcot Street, meanwhile, is where you’ll find a host of local artisans. Take a calligraphy class at Meticulous Ink (meticulousink.com), try on Katherine Fraser’s scarves, handwoven on the shop’s loom (katherinefraser.co.uk), then pause for a craft beer at Brewed Boy. Landrace Bakery uses organic, stone-ground flour for its baked treats and in the pasta dishes served at its relaxed dining space Landrace Upstairs (landracebakery.com).
A number of Bath’s museums focus on Georgian life and fashion but its smaller collections are also worth a look. Few people know that William Herschel discovered Uranus from a Bath garden in 1781. The Herschel Museum displays his telescopes, globes and workshops (herschelmuseum.org.uk). The American Museum at Claverton Manor, meanwhile, tells stories from American history through its objects. The gardens, grotto and valley views encourage visitors to linger (americanmuseum.org). Alternatively, visit Dick Willows cider barn afterwards, for similar views accompanied by cloudy cider, street food and chilled tunes (dickwillows.com).
There’s fine and decorative art at the Holburne Museum (holburne.org), and from here you can drop down onto the Kennet and Avon canal for a stroll past a series of locks. Not all visitors get onto the water in Bath but the city is well set up for adventures on the canal or River Avon. Options include hiring a punt, canoe or skiff at Bath Boating Station (bathboating.co.uk), or a standup paddleboard from Original Wild (originalwild.com). Alternatively, the canal can be explored in a canoe or on a bicycle hired from Bath Narrowboats (bath-narrowboats.co.uk).
Pub lunches and a walk go hand in hand, and the golden stone, hilltop village of South Stoke, just south of Bath, offers both. A circular walk from The Packhorse passes overgrown trenches that were once the Somerset Coal Canal. The pub offers seasonal dishes and has a picturesque garden (packhorsebath.co.uk). On the same hill, Castle Farm is home to a restaurant and supper club where the roti canai is a brunch favourite (castlefarmmidford.co.uk).
For dinner in the city centre, restaurants with small plates and top-notch wine lists, like Corkage (corkagebath.com), are deservedly popular. Offering something more substantial, The Elder is a wood-panelled restaurant focusing on game and traditional English cuisine (theelder.co.uk).
Taco bar Dos Dedos brings more far-flung flavours, alongside more than 100 mezcals and tequilas (dosdedos.co.uk). Bath’s best atmosphere for drinks however comes courtesy of underground bar Hideout, a former highwayman’s den with powerful whiskey cocktails (hideoutbath.co.uk).
Need to rest your head? The Yard is a boutique hotel with a wine bar (theyardinbath.co.uk) showcasing organic tipples from Wolf Wines, which has its own saloon bar further south (wolfwine.co.uk). The best of The Yard’s bedrooms comes with its own roof terrace. Alternatively, No 15 Great Pulteney has 37 elegant rooms just minutes from the Pulteney Bridge, and a copper bath built for two in its basement spa (guesthousehotels.co.uk).
Like a local: Richard Bertinet’s favourite pit stops
Richard is a French baker, chef and owner of The Bertinet Kitchen cookery school in Bath (thebertinetkitchen.com). He also offers cookery classes via BBC Maestro (bbcmaestro.com).
- Walcot House
This is my main place for breakfast. The friendly staff are well trained and they do their own smoked salmon, which I love. I look for a nice, big table where I can put down my newspaper and look out of the window. walcothousebath.com - Framptons
This is on the tourist trail but they do the classics well – waffles or toast and avocado. There is a nice vibe and great service. I try to sit by the window so I can see the weir, it’s a prime spot. framptonsbar.co.uk - Green Bird Cafe
It’s in a part of town where tourists don’t really venture, they walk right past from the Royal Crescent. But what a beautiful place! It’s fantastic.There is a great chef and it’s a simple, family-run business. greenbirdcafe.co.uk
This article first appeared in National Geographic Traveller, October 2021
